Katie's Korner

Many of the households in the US have both cats and dogs, and introducing a new cat to a resident dog or vice versa can be challenging.  Here are some tips to help make the experience a positive one!  Things that should be taken into consideration are whether the new pet has ever interacted with a member of the other species, though pleasant interactions in the past may not dictate how a new interaction will progress.  Most cats will be afraid of dogs.  Dogs can react to cats differently, with some immediately viewing the cat as prey and aggression towards the cat results, they may be very curious and want to play, which may work out well or may end with aggression as a response to a swat or hiss from the cat, or they may be relaxed with the cat.  The most important thing with new introductions is to make it a positive  and safe one.  Until you are sure how an animal might react, it is important to keep the pets separated when supervision is not available.

For a first introduction, begin with allowing the cat and dog to hear and smell each other, but not see each other.  Keeping the new pet confined to a room with the door closed works well.  Using an old towel, rub it on one pet to pick up scent and then place the towel in the room with the other pet.  After awhile, confine the resident pet and repeat the procedure with the towel.  Feed the animals on either side of the door so they associate each other’s presence with a good experience.  Next, arrange a “meeting” where they can see each other but not interact, whether it be through a glass or screen door, baby gate, or on leashes.  Once they calm down, increase the time that they see each other and decrease the distance, all the while ensuring safety.  This may need to be done over several sessions.  Once they are close together, allow a bit more interaction.  Use a squirt bottle with water to disrupt any inappropriate or overexuberent behavior.

Animals vary in how long it takes for them to get used to each other.  Again, if they are not completely trustworthy, do not allow them to interact unsupervised.  If necessary, there are professionals that can help with behavior issues.  Contact your veterinarian if you are concerned.

Thank you to the Colorado Veterinary Medical Association for their input with this blog!

This month’s blog focuses on the needs and changes of senior pets.  The age at which a pet becomes a “senior” varies depending on its size, but a good rough guide is that cats and small dogs become seniors at about 7 years of age, while larger breeds of dogs may be considered senior at even 5-6 years.  The National Pet Wellness Month website at www.npwm.com has a calculator that can convert your pet’s age into human years.  Older pets are more likely to develop heart, kidney, and liver disease  than younger pets, as well as cancer and arthritis.  For this reason, at least yearly, if not twice yearly, veterinary visits are even more important for older pets.  Medications are available for these conditions and can be discussed with your veterinarian.  Aging animals can develop vision or hearing loss similar to aging people, and may require special attention such as the use of hand signals, guidance at night, and not moving furniture around to help them.

Older pets may show changes in behavior, such as increased barking or meowing especially at night, confusion, disorientation, compulsive behaviors, decreased interest in play, anxiety, nervousness, or increased aggression.  These can be signs of cognitive dysfunction, and should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Weight loss or gain should be a cause for concern in an older pet.  Excess weight can put strain on already arthritic joints, and weight loss can be an indication of a serious health problem such as cancer, metabolic disease, or hyperthyroidism in cats.

For more information on this topic, visit www.avma.org and look for client education handouts.

All pet owners should be aware that the Food and Drug Administration has issued an alert for chicken jerky products made in China.  Recently these products have caused kidney failure and glucose in the urine in dogs that have eaten them.  Things that pet owners should watch out for include decreased appetite, lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, increased water consumption, and increase urination.  Signs are seen within hours to days of the pet eating the product, and require immediate veterinary attention.  Your veterinarian will likely perform bloodwork and may see things such as increase blood urea nitrogen (BUN) and creatinine (increased kidney values).  Urine tests may show glucosuria (glucose in the urine).  At this time officials are not sure of a definitive cause for these signs, but are working and testing the products extensively.

1. Fire safety.  While candles may make a beautiful centerpiece, they also pose a danger to paws and whiskers.  A serious fire may also result from a candle being knocked over by a curious pet.

2. People food.  Many animals enjoy table scraps, but the rich foods served around the holidays can be deadly to pets.  It can cause pancreatitis, stomach upset, or even be toxic and lead to death.  For a list of safe treats, click here.

3. Breakable articles.  ‘Tis the season to use the valuable china, but pets don’t know how valuable something may be.  Make sure they are confined while the breakables are out.

4. Toxic plants.  Mistletoe, holly, poinsettia, and lilies can be deadly to pets.

5. Alcoholic beverages.  Alcohol and pets do not mix.  Make sure any alcoholic beverages are kept away from pets.

6. Chocolate.  Chocolate is very toxic to pets, especially baking chocolate.  Boxes or bowls containing chocolate candy should not be left out in a pet’s reach.

7.  Lighting dangers.  Strings of lights may make an interesting, but unsafe, toy for pets.  Help keep your pets safe by hanging lights high.

8. Decorating with food.  Strings of popcorn and cranberries can be toxic to pets, and if ingested string can cause a host of problems that may result in surgery or even death.

9. Tinsel.  Cats may love to play with it, but it can be very dangerous and cause gastrointestinal problems.

10. Wrapping.  While bows and bells may look nice, they can cause serious problems if ingested.  Keep them out of reach of pets, or even better, do not use them.

Have a safe holiday season!

Originally published by HomeAgain November Newsletter.

Our feline friends are more likely than dogs to be overweight or obese.  The CATalyst Council has published some guidelines to help prevent weight gain in cats and to help overweight cats lose weight.

1.  Will work for food. Food toys are available that channel a cat’s natural hunting drive and release kibble a small amount at a time. Another option is to hide a cat’s food in different places so that he or she has to find it. Working for food makes a cat happy because it’s great physical and mental exercise.

2.  Training. Cats are smart and can be trained to do fun tricks just like dogs, and the mental and physical stimulation is great for your cat. With a little time, you can easily teach your cat to play fetch, find a favorite toy or jump on command, all of which are great exercise.  As an added bonus, training a cat will help strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

3.  Walking. Many cats enjoy taking walks with their owners. Walking a cat does require purchasing a special harness and leash designed for a cat and ensuring your cat is up to date on all of its vaccinations and preventative medications, but provides excellent exercise for both the cat and owner.

4.  Prey toys.  Cats are natural hunters and love chasing, pouncing, leaping, swatting and stalking prey, even when it’s not a “real” prey item. There are many types of prey toys available on the market; or, with a little creativity, you can even make your own out of common household items. Just make sure they are safe and appropriate for your cat (your veterinarian can help provide guidance on homemade cat toys). All the fun of hunting is also fantastic exercise for the cat.

5.  Think about getting another cat.  Cats are social animals, and you should consider getting another cat to keep your current kitty company. Cats love to play, and having a feline friend in the house will make for two happy cats, provided they are properly introduced and have the right places to eat, hide, play and go to the bathroom. Visit your community animal shelter and see what feline friends they have to offer. The playing that cats do with one another is great exercise and will ensure both cats remain active and healthy.

Article courtesy of the CATalyst Council and the Colorado Veterinary Medical Association

In a time where many of us are taking vacations, some questions arise about taking your pets with you!  Here are some guidelines for traveling with your pets.

1. Traveling by car?  Make sure that your pet is used to riding before setting out on a long trip.  Try shorter trips just around the block and gradually work up to longer distances.  If your pet gets nauseous or vomits in the car, contact your veterinarian as there are medications, some over the counter and some prescription, that can be used to make your pet more comfortable while traveling.

2. Traveling by plane?  A health certificate signed by an accredited veterinarian is required for your pet to be on the plane, whether it be under the seat or in the cargo area, and is also required for interstate or international travel by car.  Use the examination time for the health certificate with your veterinarian to discuss appropriate flying conditions, especially if your pet will travel in cargo.  You can also discuss sedatives or anti-anxiety medications for your pet.

3.  Make sure to check whether your hotel is pet friendly, and also if there are any weight or breed restrictions.  Never leave a pet in a hotel room unattended.  If necessary, research boarding facilities nearby your hotel if you need to leave your pet for the day.

4. Be sure to pack an ample supply of food and water for your pet.  Continuing to feed them their usual food will help to avoid GI upset such as vomiting and diarrhea.  If on the road, be sure to stop frequently and let your pet out and offer water.

5. Have appropriate identification on your pet with correct and current phone numbers and addresses.  Microchipping is a great way to identify your pet if they are lost and without a collar, but it is important that the information on file with the microchip registration service be current.

6. If your animal takes prescription medication, ensure that you have an ample supply on hand.  It is also helpful to have a list of medications with dosages and frequency if your pet requires emergency treatment while on the road.  Also helpful is the contact information of your veterinary clinic and doctor’s name.

7. Bring familiar bedding and toys to help make your pet feel more at home.

8. Above all…HAVE FUN!

Write in with any questions or comments.

For those in the Denver area, the past week or two has brought many thunderstorms.  Many pets, cats and dogs, are afraid of the loud thunder involved in these storms.  Today’s post will discuss options for management of these fears.

1. Location of the animal: The best place for fearful animals to be during storms is in a small, dark, inside area in the center of the house if possible.  You can turn on a radio or television to help drown out some of the noise.

2. Supplements: There is a new supplement on the market called ProQuiet that is a natural alternative to tranquilizers and is available without a prescription.  It contains L-trytophan and hops (which in larger quantities are not safe for animals) to promote relaxation and sleep.  Additionally, melatonin has been used to aid in relaxation as well.  Always consult your veterinarian before starting any new medication or supplement.

3. Tranquilizers: Prescription medications, the most common being acepromazine, can also be used to help with noise phobias.  These medications, along with the supplements above, are most effective when given 30-60 minutes prior to the onset of the storm.  They lose effectiveness when given when the dog is already anxious.  Animals should be supervised when they are sedate, and again, always consult your veterinarian before using any new supplement or medication.

4. Anxiety-relieving compression shirts: Shirts such as Thundershirt and AnxietyWrap use evenly distributed pressure to help stop anxiety.  Again, these shirts will likely work better when put on prior to the start of the storm.

Any questions, please comment!

The weather is improving and many of you are probably out walking your dogs more often!  This issue will be centered on different types of collars to help with pulling on leash.

1. Head Collars: These collars are similar to halters for horses.  The premise behind them is that if the head is controlled, the body must follow.  These collars should not be used with retractable leashes, but can be used with regular leashes.  The most common brands are Gentle Leader and Halti, and are widely available at most pet stores.  The collars must be fitted probably, so don’t hesitate to ask for help from an associate to fit your pet.

2. Front Clip Harnesses: These harnesses follow the same premise as the head collars in that you are controlling the front of the body and the rest must follow.  They distribute the pressure evenly across the body and encourage walking next to you instead of ahead.  Again, these should not be used with retractable leashes.  The most common brand is Gentle Leader.

3. Back Clip Harnesses:  These harnesses are the traditional harnesses you are used to seeing, where the leash fastens in the back.  These harnesses work well for some dogs, but in other dogs can actually encourage pulling.

4. Chain Collars/Fabric Slip Collars: These are collars that have the ability to slip and tighten around the neck when the dog pulls.  They are meant to be used for sharp corrections and not to be pulled against while tightened as it can cause choking.  These collars should not be left on a dog unsupervised as they can become caught and choke the dog.

5.  Prong Collars: These are the traditional “pinch” collars that have prongs that distribute pressure in points across a dog’s neck.  They too are only meant for sharp correction.  These collars may only need to be used on stubborn dogs, and we recommend trying the head collars and front clip harnesses prior to resorting to this collar.

Please write in with questions or if there are other types of collars that you would like to discuss!

March 20-26 is National Poison Prevention Week (for both cats and dogs).

For all of you cat lovers out there, the Pet Poison Helpline has created a list of the most common poisons seen in cats in 2010.

Coming in first at 40% of phone calls to the helpline are human and veterinary medications, such as acetaminophen.  Poisonous plants came in at 14% of all calls, and insecticide ingestion was third at 9%.  This includes household insecticides and improper treatment with a flea and tick medication meant for dogs.  Household cleaners made up 6%, including kitchen and bath surface cleaners, carpet cleaners, and toilet bowel cleaners.  The remaining 31% was composed of other toxins such as glow sticks and liquid potpourri.

If your cat ingests any of the above items or if you are unsure if what they ingested is toxic, please contact your veterinarian for immediate treatment.

The Pet Poison Helpline has put together a series of videos with information about how to keep pets safe in your home.  They can be found at http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/Ask-the-Vet-Videos.

Based on a request from a reader, this month’s entry will be about hidden dangers to pets that can exist in the backyard.

Lawn Edging

Metal lawn edging that is placed to hold rocks and bark for landscaping can be very dangerous to your pet’s feet.  It can cause cuts on the paw pads, as well as the back of the foot.  It is possible for lawn edging to lacerate the tendons in the back of the leg, resulting in potential surgery and a long recovery period.  This is especially dangerous when it is covered with snow, taking away your pet’s ability to see their normal paths.  Ways to combat these problems include taking the lawn edging out (the best, in my opinion), cleaning off the lawn edging from snow, and buying commercially available plastic to put over the top of it.

Window Well Covers

These covers can be good and bad: when properly applied and maintained, they can keep pets from falling into the window wells.  However, when not properly maintained, they can present many hazards.  Window well grates that are large enough for your pet’s feet to get caught in can cause twisting injuries and fractures as well as a panicked animal if they are stuck.  Also, plastic covers that are wearing thin may collapse if your pet stands on them, causing them to fall into the window well.  Potential solutions would be to put a landscaping fence around the area, to replace the covers, and to ensure that the holes in the grate are small enough that your pet can’t get its feet caught in it.

Salt Solutions

Salt that is used to melt snow and ice off the pavement can be very caustic to your pet’s feet.  Solutions to this can include washing your pet’s feet after them come inside, or using booties on their feet when they are outside.

Ice/Snow

Animals that have long hair between their toes are at risk for developing painful iceballs and matts between their toes.  Again, this can be resolved by not leaving pets outside for long periods of time, cleaning feet off when they come inside, or wearing booties while outside.

Please comment with any questions or other hidden dangers!