It is important that pets that often outdoors, hunt, or hike be protected from ticks and heartworm.  For more information on heartworm, please read our previous post here.  There are many products on the market that help protect against fleas and ticks.  This chart (Flea Tick and Heartworm Prevention Comparison Chart) highlights just some of the products that can be used.  (Thank you to Dr. Lauren Kloer for the chart!)  Of course, please contact your veterinarian for which product might be the best for your pet.  Please write in with any questions!

Dental health is of upmost importance, not just for the health of the teeth but for the overall health of your pet.  Abscessed teeth and inflamed gums can mobilize bacteria into the bloodstream and cause an overall bacteremia that is detrimental to your pet’s health.  Bacteria from the oral cavity can cause infections even in areas such as the heart.

A thorough dental cleaning under general anesthesia as well as a periodontal evaluation is the most effective way to ensure oral health.  After performing a preanesthetic blood panel and ensuring health of the liver, kidney, and heart, your pet is placed under general anesthesia and an endotracheal tube is placed in the trachea to protect the airway, ensure adequate ventilation, and keep water and tartar from traveling down the airway.  An intravenous catheter is placed and used to administer fluids to support blood pressure while under anesthesia.  The teeth are scaled using an ultrasonic scaler, and then each side of each tooth is evaluated for pocketing, bone loss, fractures, tartar, and gingivitis.  In some cases dental radiographs may be taken.  Where it is necessary, teeth are extracted and the sites closed with absorbable sutures.  The teeth are then polished and fluoride is applied.  After the procedure is completed, the pet is recovered from anesthesia.  Intravenous or subcutaneous antibiotics and pain medications may be used as needed, and the pet may be sent home with oral medication if necessary.

What about anesthesia free dentals, you may ask?  While these procedures may aid in keeping the teeth clean, it is very difficult to get a good subgingival (under the gumline) cleaning while the pet is awake, and this is where much of the bacteria and plaque lies.  This procedure should be used as a supplement to regular cleanings under anesthesia.

While National Pet Dental Health month may be over, that should not stop you from scheduling a dental exam for your pet with your veterinarian today!

For a first introduction, begin with allowing the cat and dog to hear and smell each other, but not see each other.  Keeping the new pet confined to a room with the door closed works well.  Using an old towel, rub it on one pet to pick up scent and then place the towel in the room with the other pet.  After awhile, confine the resident pet and repeat the procedure with the towel.  Feed the animals on either side of the door so they associate each other’s presence with a good experience.  Next, arrange a “meeting” where they can see each other but not interact, whether it be through a glass or screen door, baby gate, or on leashes.  Once they calm down, increase the time that they see each other and decrease the distance, all the while ensuring safety.  This may need to be done over several sessions.  Once they are close together, allow a bit more interaction.  Use a squirt bottle with water to disrupt any inappropriate or overexuberent behavior.

Animals vary in how long it takes for them to get used to each other.  Again, if they are not completely trustworthy, do not allow them to interact unsupervised.  If necessary, there are professionals that can help with behavior issues.  Contact your veterinarian if you are concerned.

Thank you to the Colorado Veterinary Medical Association for their input with this blog!

Older pets may show changes in behavior, such as increased barking or meowing especially at night, confusion, disorientation, compulsive behaviors, decreased interest in play, anxiety, nervousness, or increased aggression.  These can be signs of cognitive dysfunction, and should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Weight loss or gain should be a cause for concern in an older pet.  Excess weight can put strain on already arthritic joints, and weight loss can be an indication of a serious health problem such as cancer, metabolic disease, or hyperthyroidism in cats.

For more information on this topic, visit www.avma.org and look for client education handouts.

2. People food.  Many animals enjoy table scraps, but the rich foods served around the holidays can be deadly to pets.  It can cause pancreatitis, stomach upset, or even be toxic and lead to death.  For a list of safe treats, click here.

3. Breakable articles.  ‘Tis the season to use the valuable china, but pets don’t know how valuable something may be.  Make sure they are confined while the breakables are out.

4. Toxic plants.  Mistletoe, holly, poinsettia, and lilies can be deadly to pets.

5. Alcoholic beverages.  Alcohol and pets do not mix.  Make sure any alcoholic beverages are kept away from pets.

6. Chocolate.  Chocolate is very toxic to pets, especially baking chocolate.  Boxes or bowls containing chocolate candy should not be left out in a pet’s reach.

7.  Lighting dangers.  Strings of lights may make an interesting, but unsafe, toy for pets.  Help keep your pets safe by hanging lights high.

8. Decorating with food.  Strings of popcorn and cranberries can be toxic to pets, and if ingested string can cause a host of problems that may result in surgery or even death.

9. Tinsel.  Cats may love to play with it, but it can be very dangerous and cause gastrointestinal problems.

10. Wrapping.  While bows and bells may look nice, they can cause serious problems if ingested.  Keep them out of reach of pets, or even better, do not use them.

Have a safe holiday season!

Originally published by HomeAgain November Newsletter.

1.  Will work for food. Food toys are available that channel a cat’s natural hunting drive and release kibble a small amount at a time. Another option is to hide a cat’s food in different places so that he or she has to find it. Working for food makes a cat happy because it’s great physical and mental exercise.

2.  Training. Cats are smart and can be trained to do fun tricks just like dogs, and the mental and physical stimulation is great for your cat. With a little time, you can easily teach your cat to play fetch, find a favorite toy or jump on command, all of which are great exercise.  As an added bonus, training a cat will help strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

3.  Walking. Many cats enjoy taking walks with their owners. Walking a cat does require purchasing a special harness and leash designed for a cat and ensuring your cat is up to date on all of its vaccinations and preventative medications, but provides excellent exercise for both the cat and owner.

4.  Prey toys.  Cats are natural hunters and love chasing, pouncing, leaping, swatting and stalking prey, even when it’s not a “real” prey item. There are many types of prey toys available on the market; or, with a little creativity, you can even make your own out of common household items. Just make sure they are safe and appropriate for your cat (your veterinarian can help provide guidance on homemade cat toys). All the fun of hunting is also fantastic exercise for the cat.

5.  Think about getting another cat.  Cats are social animals, and you should consider getting another cat to keep your current kitty company. Cats love to play, and having a feline friend in the house will make for two happy cats, provided they are properly introduced and have the right places to eat, hide, play and go to the bathroom. Visit your community animal shelter and see what feline friends they have to offer. The playing that cats do with one another is great exercise and will ensure both cats remain active and healthy.

Article courtesy of the CATalyst Council and the Colorado Veterinary Medical Association

1. Traveling by car?  Make sure that your pet is used to riding before setting out on a long trip.  Try shorter trips just around the block and gradually work up to longer distances.  If your pet gets nauseous or vomits in the car, contact your veterinarian as there are medications, some over the counter and some prescription, that can be used to make your pet more comfortable while traveling.

2. Traveling by plane?  A health certificate signed by an accredited veterinarian is required for your pet to be on the plane, whether it be under the seat or in the cargo area, and is also required for interstate or international travel by car.  Use the examination time for the health certificate with your veterinarian to discuss appropriate flying conditions, especially if your pet will travel in cargo.  You can also discuss sedatives or anti-anxiety medications for your pet.

3.  Make sure to check whether your hotel is pet friendly, and also if there are any weight or breed restrictions.  Never leave a pet in a hotel room unattended.  If necessary, research boarding facilities nearby your hotel if you need to leave your pet for the day.

4. Be sure to pack an ample supply of food and water for your pet.  Continuing to feed them their usual food will help to avoid GI upset such as vomiting and diarrhea.  If on the road, be sure to stop frequently and let your pet out and offer water.

5. Have appropriate identification on your pet with correct and current phone numbers and addresses.  Microchipping is a great way to identify your pet if they are lost and without a collar, but it is important that the information on file with the microchip registration service be current.

6. If your animal takes prescription medication, ensure that you have an ample supply on hand.  It is also helpful to have a list of medications with dosages and frequency if your pet requires emergency treatment while on the road.  Also helpful is the contact information of your veterinary clinic and doctor’s name.

7. Bring familiar bedding and toys to help make your pet feel more at home.

8. Above all…HAVE FUN!

Write in with any questions or comments.

1. Location of the animal: The best place for fearful animals to be during storms is in a small, dark, inside area in the center of the house if possible.  You can turn on a radio or television to help drown out some of the noise.

2. Supplements: There is a new supplement on the market called ProQuiet that is a natural alternative to tranquilizers and is available without a prescription.  It contains L-trytophan and hops (which in larger quantities are not safe for animals) to promote relaxation and sleep.  Additionally, melatonin has been used to aid in relaxation as well.  Always consult your veterinarian before starting any new medication or supplement.

3. Tranquilizers: Prescription medications, the most common being acepromazine, can also be used to help with noise phobias.  These medications, along with the supplements above, are most effective when given 30-60 minutes prior to the onset of the storm.  They lose effectiveness when given when the dog is already anxious.  Animals should be supervised when they are sedate, and again, always consult your veterinarian before using any new supplement or medication.

4. Anxiety-relieving compression shirts: Shirts such as Thundershirt and AnxietyWrap use evenly distributed pressure to help stop anxiety.  Again, these shirts will likely work better when put on prior to the start of the storm.

Any questions, please comment!

1. Head Collars: These collars are similar to halters for horses.  The premise behind them is that if the head is controlled, the body must follow.  These collars should not be used with retractable leashes, but can be used with regular leashes.  The most common brands are Gentle Leader and Halti, and are widely available at most pet stores.  The collars must be fitted probably, so don’t hesitate to ask for help from an associate to fit your pet.

2. Front Clip Harnesses: These harnesses follow the same premise as the head collars in that you are controlling the front of the body and the rest must follow.  They distribute the pressure evenly across the body and encourage walking next to you instead of ahead.  Again, these should not be used with retractable leashes.  The most common brand is Gentle Leader.

3. Back Clip Harnesses:  These harnesses are the traditional harnesses you are used to seeing, where the leash fastens in the back.  These harnesses work well for some dogs, but in other dogs can actually encourage pulling.

4. Chain Collars/Fabric Slip Collars: These are collars that have the ability to slip and tighten around the neck when the dog pulls.  They are meant to be used for sharp corrections and not to be pulled against while tightened as it can cause choking.  These collars should not be left on a dog unsupervised as they can become caught and choke the dog.

5.  Prong Collars: These are the traditional “pinch” collars that have prongs that distribute pressure in points across a dog’s neck.  They too are only meant for sharp correction.  These collars may only need to be used on stubborn dogs, and we recommend trying the head collars and front clip harnesses prior to resorting to this collar.

Please write in with questions or if there are other types of collars that you would like to discuss!